Ha! Well you see this started out as an innocent idea that went full-blown project in a matter of minutes on a Saturday morning in aisle 34 of Home Depot. I had read a blog post that I found on Pinterest and thought WOW that seems easy we can totally do that in a weekend. Yes, we could have if we had all the right tools and carpentry knowledge there is to know, but we didn’t. So we did our best with what we did have, like we always do, and accomplished the project in a week instead.
Lets back this DIY train up a little and let me tell you the steps we took to get the job done.
What you will need- Buy according to your dimensions
- Beadboard– $20 per sheet at Home Depot
- Liquid Nails for paneling– $4 per tube
- Liquid Nails for PVC and trim– $4 per tube
- Trim- $2.99 for 24ft
- Finishing Nails – 2.68 for 1lb box
- Miter Saw
- Table saw or in our case a jig saw
- White caulk
- Painters Tape
Total Cost $70
We should have known that when the beadboard wouldn’t fit in Dan’s car that we should have saved ourselves and returned it all right there. If only I could see into the future right!? Instead we had the board cut down into smaller pieces and took it home to get started.
Step 1. Cut Board to Size
Once we got home we realized that the boards were almost the right size for where they would be installed, YAY! All we had to do was some minor trimming with the jigsaw.
If you have a table saw, we highly suggest using that instead. The jigsaw worked, but was a little unstable and we didn’t get the cleanest of cuts, which we didn’t mind since the edges were getting covered by trim anyways.
Step 2. Cut Electrical Outlet Holes
You are going to want to cut out the holes for your outlets before installing the beadboard. Dan used the stencil method and drew a pattern out for the outlet so he then could trace this onto the board to show him where to cut. Make sure to cut out holes just for the outlet opening and not the whole size of your outlet with the cover on it. This way the cover will sit on the top of the board instead of it being recessed. (we made this mistake on the first board) Whoops!
I would highly suggest making sure that you can get the board on/over the outlets before adding the glue. We found that one hole may need to be a little bigger in order for everything to fit correctly. As Dan always tells me, since I am not a very patient person, “measure twice cut once”.
Step 3. Gluing Down the Bead Board
Now that you have the boards cut to size and the outlet holes pre-cut, it’s time to add the glue. We chose to use Liquid Nails paneling glue to adhere the bead board to the wall. You will want to apply it pretty generously as you don’t want your board falling, but don’t put too much at the edge because it will come gushing out when you press it against the wall. After the board has glue and you have pushed it onto the wall you will want to put a few small tack nails in the corners of the board, this helps hold the board in place and adhere to wall better. I suggest placing the nails where they can be covered by the trim that will go up next.
We were pretty dumb when it came to this step and were having a hard time getting the board to stay up and then it dawned on us to use the nails. It was so bad for a little bit that were trying to place potato sacks and other heavy objects against it to keep the board in place. Not our brightest moment!
Just like base board or crown molding you will need a miter saw for this. This might have been the hardest part for us as we aren’t that skilled in miter’s and well it’s pretty darn hard to figure out when you’re a nu-bey at it.
So after a few trial cuts we finally got all the pieces cut to size. Whew!
Step 5. Gluing the Trim
This step is easy or so you would think right?
You will add the PVC trim glue to the back of the trim just as you did for the bead board. Place and press the trim where desired, then pray it stays in place! Ha just kidding, this is where the painters tape comes into play. We used the painters tape to hold the trim into place, mainly for the top and edge pieces. Wait a good 12 -24 hrs. before removing the tape to ensure the trim stayed in place. I’m sure there is a better way to do this step, but this is what we did and it worked great, by all means feel free to try something different.
Step 6. Caulking
This is the last and final step!! WOOHOO!! We put white caulk along the bottom, top, and mitered corners to give everything a finished look and to seal it from wet substances. Dan did this all by hand, but we found later that there is a little tool you can buy so that you don’t have to use your fingers the whole time. Find the nifty caulk tool here.
After removing the tape, letting the caulk dry, standing back and looking at your masterpiece you are finally FINISHED!!!
This was a learning process and then some for us, but I hope that this post helps you not make the same mistakes we did. We improvised at times and things worked out, but having the proper tools would have really helped.
I hope you all found this helpful and encourages you tackle your DIY projects head on!
As always please feel free to comment or contact me with questions or share your own DIY stories.